Always keep your trowel clean, after every time you use it, clean it, plaster expands so if it gets under the ridge of the trowel then it bursts the rivets, so keep it clean all the time!
When carrying plasterboards never carry it so its flat, always upright, this way you reduce the chance of the board snapping.
Tools - Plasterboarding Tools - Dry Lining
Modern day construction uses plasterboarding more and more to a point where its now standard.
Plasterboarding replaces the old laths where you would place thin strips of wood across battens/studs then plaster over the top of them.
Using plasterboards not only does it save time, its stronger and a nicer finish don't take as long to achieve.
Plasterboard can be finished many ways, this page lists the tools required to dry line to a point where its ready for the paint finish or ready for the prep of other finishes.
Tools On This Page
Strictly speaking not really a tool but choosing the correct type screw is very important.
Drywall screws come in a verity of sizes and in two different coatings, you can always's tell these are dry wall screws but the drive type and head type.
There always a size 2 Philips Head (PH2) 
and a Bugle Head type countersunk shaft 
, there single and wide threaded. The reason there Bugle Head is so it keeps a good grip with out damaging the board while it expanded where a standard countersunk screw would just start to slip though.
The coating on the screw is very important there are two types, Zinc and Phosphate. You should ALWAYS use the Phosphate coated screws (black in colour) this is because the coating is rust resistant, if you use the zinc ones when they start to rust it will blow the plaster and ruin the finish, the sell the zinc one as a budget option but there only a few pence cheaper.
These have a similar head shape as drywall screws.
These also come in a few different sizes but all are galvanised to try and resist rust.
Plasterboard nails aren't that practical as with natural vibration and expansion these can work loose and blow the surface.
Used for hammering plasterboard nails in and the axe side was used to chop down laths, the V notch is for pulling the nails out.
The hammer has a wide perfectly flat head with groves that stop the hammer from slipping to prevent damage to the board when hitting the nail in.
They come in 14oz and 22oz weights.
Very handy tool and perfect for DIY'ers and Tradesmen.
These are basically a screwdriver bit with a collar stuck on, there perfect for use in a drill/driver but the lighter the drill the better even more so when your plasterboarding ceilings.
The bit will hold the screw tight enough for it to not fall over the end 99% of the time so its possible for a one handed operation, the collar stops you from driving the screw in to far so a perfect results every time.
Very effective and less then £2
Drywall Screw Driver - Auto Feeders
Bit of a toy but can make driving screws into drywall faster.
They are like a drill/driver but there chuck has an philips head bit permanently with an adjustable collar surrounding the bit.
They come in corded and cordless version and generally aren't to powerful but more then enough to drive the longest screw in.
The collar is adjustable so that you can achieve different depths, the bit is magnetic so a truly one handed operation is possible.
The auto feeder models save even more time and is 100% a one handed operation. The screws come is a ribbon all lined up one by one, you press the auto feed up to where you want the screw squeeze the trigger and plunge it to the wall, the next screw automatically moves onto the bit.
Stainless Steel ones are the better ones as these will not rust, you use a trowel mainly to get the undercoat/base coat material on the wall.
The only time you will need a trowel while dry lining is if your attaching the boards via a dot n dab method. There is also a trick when taping using trowels that can save you from buying a taping knife.
You use them by scooping the material from the bucket with your trowel and dabbing it on to the wall.
Trowels are smaller in length then float trowels and come around 325x125mm (13x5 inch).
A must have if your planning to do a bit of Dot n Dabbing, its very hard to get plaster mixed correctly unless you use some type of mixing device.
You can get two types of mixing paddles, one which you can use with your standard house hold drill and another that's designed to be used with a Mixing Drill (a drill designed for only mixing there chuck is a threaded insert to which some paddles have the threaded end to fit in these drills)
When using these make sure the drill is in reverse and you keep the paddle low in the bucket, this stops it shooting out of the bucket and ensures an even mix as it draws the material in to the paddle rather then throwing it around the bucket.
Very important when jointing, is comes on a roll and one side is self adhesive.
You use this with tapered edge plasterboards.
When you butt to boards together you have a slight gap, you fill that gap with jointing compound.
As the jointing compound. and plasterboards expand at different rates it will crack at the joints.
If you inlay scrim tape down the tapered edges of two butting joints it greats a bridge and the fibers in the tape is enough to bring strength to the joint, holding it together preventing it from cracking.
You simply place the tape on the board and use a taping knife to flatten the scrim tape out, pushing the blade onto the scrim then pull the real to wards the blade at an angle will also cut the scrim tape, you can also use a trowel for this.
Used for when taping joints with scrim tape.
Stainless steel ones last longer as they don't rust.
They have a tapered blade that's not to sharp but perfect for flattening the tape out and cutting it to length.
You can get these in to sizes 250mm (10 inch) or 3mm (12 inch).
Used to apply joint compound. over joints.
Its like a big filling knife, you apply the compound. and strike (drag) the joints or over screw getting it as flat as you can but with no low spots.
Again Stainless Steel one will last longer and not rust.
They come in 100mm (4 inch) and 150mm (6 inch)
Internal & External Available but the internal corner is more likely to be used
Used to get the jointing compound into corners.
You wouldn't put any plaster on this tool more taking off material that's on the wall already, great for where the ceiling and wall joins.
The sides are flexible so if your walls aren't at a perfect 90° then it will not matter to much.
Handy tool and not just for lifting boards.
The idea is that its a one footed operation os you have both hands free.
Its uses is to initially lift plasterboards to move them elsewhere or once you have a board in position you can use it to lift the board to the ceiling making that joint at tight as you can, its also handy for keeping a board in its final resting position while fixing the board to the wall.
This is a multi trade tool to, its used in carpentry and joinery.
A must have if your planning to plasterboard a ceiling.
The idea behind these is to support the plasterboard to the ceiling while your fixing the board.
Recommended to buy them in pairs but they aren't every expensive under £10 each.
Some tradesmen will make some full length props on site from spare timber
These are only rated to support 30kgs each, they have quick release for speed and ease.
Scott-Jack Plasterboard lifter
Very much a professional tool due to its high price but makes fixing plasterboards to ceilings a wonder to do.
When plasterboarding ceilings its advice to have a helper but with this platform and jack its only a one man job.
You rest the board on each end the jacks then as you pull the ratchet trigger it raises the board to the ceiling for you supporting both ends.
The unit is on wheels so positioning the board is easy, just jack the board up, move the platform to the right place for fixing the boards, lock the wheels, get on the platform and fix the board.
Like a Pad Saw but with bigger and blunter teeth with a pointed end.
This saw uses it's larger teeth to eat away at the material, as it a slim design you can cut shapes with it.
It cuts very rough so its not recommended to try cutting long straight lines or where the cut edge is going to be viable.
Commonly used to cut out for sockets, switches and lights.
The true name for a Stanley Knife is Utility Knife, just like the JoJo Real its names because of the manufacture of this tool along time ago became popular and everyone started calling them a Stanley Knife.
Great tool, we use it to cut plasterboards.
The idea is to score a line where you need to cut the board with the knife, you place pressure on the other side just behind your scored line, this makes the board snap just where you scored it, again you use the knife to cut the rest of the still attached paper.
Very fast, easy and clean
Sanding Block - Sanding Head & Handle - Pole Sander
Used to sand down the joint compound or high spots of plaster.
The sanding block you wrap some sand paper around the block.
It made of rubber, foam or wood and you can get hook and loop ones for use with hook and loop sand papers
With the Sanding Head & Handle you clip some sand paper in, place the head on the handle (mop stick type handle), very useful when you have a lot to do and to reach ceiling and high walls.
The head is made of metal, the handle is made of plastic or wood.
Used while dry walling to mark out important measurements on the board, most commonly the joist position.
The bulk of the tool holds a coloured chalk that lies on the string, one the string is pulled out it rubs an even amount all around the string, you place it down and pluck it, the chalk is then forced to lay on the board which gives you your mark.
The end has a hook on it so its possible to be used without the aid of an helper but its easier with one.
The chalk comes in different colours.
Even though the more expensive Jig Saws have dust seals etc inside its still nice to keep it clean and as plaster dust gets every where you will be picking the jig saw up and leaving hand prints of plaster etc so i say cheap so not to ruin a good one.
Used with more larger teeth blades this makes cut angles or shape out of plasterboards easy with a better finish than your drywall saw.
You can pick up cheap battery jig saws and the freedom of on cables while dry walling is great.
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