Always keep your trowel clean, after every time you use it, clean it, plaster expands so if it gets under the ridge of the trowel then it bursts the rivets, so keep it clean all the time!
Tools - Plastering Tools
Plastering tools are very important to getting the required results, using some of these tools can take years to truly master but don't let that put you off, plastering your self all though messy can be satisfying.
You don't need all the tools for every job, just a select few for what ever the job is your under taking.
The only one power tool a plaster tends to have is a mixing drill, the better brand for plastering hand tools is Marshalltown, these are expensive so if your a DIY'er the cheaper versions will do just fine.
Tools on this page - Click to jump to them
Stainless Steel ones are the better ones as these will not rust, you use a trowel mainly to get the undercoat/base coat material on the wall.
The technique is to get the plaster off the Hawk onto the Trowel than spreading up the wall starting at the highest point, with the trowel you will be putting the plaster on to depth so it don't need to be perfect just as flat as you can.
Trowels are used for the rough work not finishing work.
Trowels are smaller in length then float trowels and come around 325x125mm (13x5 inch).
Plasterers Float Trowel - Pre Worn Plasters Float Trowels
Again stainless steel ones will not rust, float trowels are used on the finishing coat and when smoothing out the plaster.
The technique is a little harder then using a trowel and its using the float that can take years to master. You get the plaster off the Hawk on to the Trowel then spread up then down the wall starting at the highest point. What you trying to do is get the material on the wall with the up stroke then rub as much your float lines out as you can with the down stroke as well as keeping the spread even.
PRE WORN floats are floats that already have the bevel on the edge, when you a float after a while the edges where down to the angle that you use to spread at which in turn makes your job easier and the results smoother, Pre Worn floats cuts out some of the time it takes for the floats edges to achieve the angle you work at.
Floats tend to be longer so you can get the wall flatter. 508x125mm (20x5 inch).
Plasterers Hawk - Also Known as a Handboard
Hawks is another tool that takes a bit of time to master how to use, getting the material from a Hawk to the spreading tool can sometimes be a messy task but remember its the hawk you turn to its side not the spreading tool but don't be alarmed remembering that on the Hawk is plaster which is designed to stay on ceilings and walls without falling (as long as its mixed correctly it will not come off the Hawk when you turn it on its side.
The one think you want to look out for when buying Hawks is to make sure then bolt/screw is not elevated over the service or your going to have trouble getting some of the material off the Hawk and maybe even damage to your spreading tool.
Hawks tend to come as metal to the size of 300x300mm (10x10 inch), you can save your money here as you don't need an expensive one, some tradesmen build there own from wood.
Internal & External Available but the internal corner is more likely to be used
Not used to often once your used to trowels and floats but its a great way to get the corner smooth and uniform.
You wouldn't put any plaster on this tool more taking off material that's on the wall already, great for where the ceiling and wall joins.
The sides are flexible so if your walls aren't at a perfect 90° then it will not matter to much.
Made of foam these are different from Float Trowels, in fact float trowels is the wrong name for them but as a popular misconception its caught on and there even sold as float trowels now.
Poly Floats are used once a browning coat is going off, you rub the float flat to the surface and move around in a circular motion, this gives a key for the top finish coat to stick to.
There is a penny saving trick with these poly floats, if you stick a few nails through one end you can use it as a scratch float then remove the nails when you need use it as a float again.
Used to get a flat surface when using undercoat products.
You would trowel till your happy then scrape the surface lightly with this tools filling in any lower spots until your happy you have a flat surface.
After you would need to scratch the surface as a key for your next coat to grip to.
These tend to come in lengths of 1800mm (70 inches)
Very useful tool for getting flat and uniform walls.
You would use one from the top of the wall to the bottom scrapping off just a little but of plaster in a zig zag motion.
Use this after applying undercoat but before scratching the surface to even out and any low spots should be filled.
Very using full when your doing a repair as you can use the existing plaster each side to guide the Darby down insuring your plaster work is to the same depth and as flat to the existing plaster work.
These come is a wide range of materials, alot use a planed and slightly rounded length of timber, typical size is around 1.2 meters (47 inches).
Used just like a Poly Float, its made of foam and designed to be a very long float.
You use these to get a larger area more uniformed flat, as there 1200mm (47 inches) in length they can float more of an area mean more of the wall will be uniform.
Used on undercoats but scratching the surface after is also advised to make a key for the next coat.
Used when your plaster is in a bucket rather than on a Mortar Board.
All its for is to get the material from the bucket on to the Hawk.
The advantage in using a bucket trowel rather then a gauging trowel or similar is its shape, its shape enables it to scrape the sides and bottom of the bucket better.
These are better then normal builder buckets as there made from a different lighter but stronger plastic, there flex means the paddle will not crack the walls so there for the bucket will last longer.
Its best to use a longer paddle in these buckets as there deeper then standard buckets and can hold 30 litres.
These are useful when your plastering on your own in large rooms.
A must for mixing large amounts of plaster.
When mixing in these baths its best to use a Mixing Drill, its also best to have a team of plasters otherwise the amount mixed could go off wasting a lot of it.
These baths hold 165 litres.
Used to place the material on so its faster getting the plaster on the Hawk which speeds up the job, great for larger jobs.
You don't need to spend alot on these unless your going to use it a lot, a few use some milk crates and MDF board, most tables would be suitable but we wouldn't recommend using the kitchen table.
A must have if your planning to do a bit of plastering, its very hard to get plaster mixed correctly unless you use some type of mixing device.
You can get two types of mixing paddles, one which you can use with your standard house hold drill and another that's designed to be used with a Mixing Drill (a drill designed for only mixing there chuck is a threaded insert to which some paddles have the threaded end to fit in these drills)
When using these make sure the drill is in reverse and you keep the paddle low in the bucket, this stops it shooting out of the bucket and ensures an even mix as it draws the material in to the paddle rather then throwing it around the bucket.
Very handy if you need more power to mix thicker renders or if you have a bath size container to mix.
These drills use a M14 thread permanently inside the chuck so its only use is to mix material, they normally come with extra long leads.
These drills can cost far to much for what they do, personally i would never buy the expensive ones as really what is the point when all it does is mix material and get mucky.
This tool is only really for when plastering using a render mix.
Its purpose is to scratch the surface to make groves for the next coat to stick and grab on to.
You would use the tool when the render is just about gone off.
These are great for plastering ceilings.
Means that you don't have to keep getting down off a step ladder to move them one foot.
Using these platforms is safer as well as they are harder to tip over.
Very much more suited for professionals as these can fetch a fair price and do take alittle getting used to.
There used mainly for when plastering ceilings.
They are adjustable so just about any standard height ceilings can be reached as well as the operators height is catered for.
They have safety features that help you work safely and not fall over.
These eliminate the need to get down from ladders or platforms to move to the next part of the ceiling.
Its always better to let the natural airflow dry the plaster as if it dries to fast it can shrink and crack.
Three ways to dry plaster is: High wattage lights, Heaters & Dehumidifiers.
The lights to use are 500w Halogen Flood lights, Heaters isn't recommended and Dehumidifiers work by taking the moisture out of the air.
when drying plaster always keep a window ajar.
Used soley for textured surfaces.
You use this brush artex or plaster in many different ways to create the textured surface commonly known as Artex.
Not as common to see these days but you can pick them up at any good retailer of plaster and artex products.
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